Shirt collar construction



May 24, 1949. E. c. PFEFFER, JR 2,470,950

SHIRT COLLAR CONSTRUCTION Filed Feb. 15, 1946 4 Sheets-Sheet l I9 FIG.2o

- INVENTOR. FG EDWARD C.PFEFFER JR.

ATTY.

May 24, 1949. E. c. PFEFFER, JR 2,470,950

` SHIRT COLLAR CONSTRUCTION Filed Feb'. l5, 1946 4 Sheets-Sheet 2INVENTOR.

EDWARD PFEFFER JR.

FIGQ? In@ 45% ATTY.

,May 24, 1949. E, C, PFEFFER, JR 2,470,950

SHIRT COLLAR CONSTRUCTION Filed Feb. l5, 1946 v 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 FlG. lo8 FIG. ll

INVENTOR.

EDWARD C. PFEFFER JR.

May 24, 1949. E. c. PFEFFER, JR

'SHIRT COLLAR CONSTRUCTION 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Filed Feb. 15, 1946 f S iFIG FIG. I9

l INVENTOR. EDWARD C. PFEFFER JR.

ATTY.

Patented May 24, 1949 2,410,950 SHIRT COLLAR CONSTRUCTION` Edward C.Pfeffer, Jr., Troy, N. Y., assignor to Cluett, Peabody and Co., Inc.,Troy, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application February 15, 1946,Serial No. 647,919

9 Claims. (Cl. 2-131) This invention pertains to apparel and moreparticularly to turn-down shirt collars of the selfstiffened type.Whether permanently attached to the shirt or detachable, such a collarcomprises a top and a neckband, each consisting of two or more plies ofmaterial, the top having incorporated therein a stiilenlng substance,for instance cellulose acetate or a synthetic resin which imparts thedesired degree of permanent stiffness. To avoid discomfort to the userand to facilitate buttoning the collar, the neckband is not usuallystiffened nearly so much as the top. Thus the end portions of theneckband at the front of the collar when worn fail to provide sufficientsupport for the adjacent-ends of the fold, the soit neckband rollingdownwardly and forwardly and allowing the adjacent ends of the fold togap apart.

The principal object of the present invention is to provide a collar ofthe above type having provision for supporting the adjacent ends of thefold so that they do not gap during use. A further object is to providea self-stilened collar wherein the stiffening element is extendedintothe neckband at a point adjacent to each end of the collar, thereby toprovide braces for the adjacent ends of the fold. A further object is toprovide a self-s'tiiened collar having a, top and a neckband and inwhich the stiff top comprises an integral extension at each end whichreaches down into and is housed within the neckband so as to beinvisible; which affords the desired additional stiffness necessary tokeep the collar from gapping, but which does not add to the normalstiffness of the neckband intermediate the end portions of the latter.Other and further objects and advantages of the invention will bepointed out in the following more detailed description and by referenceto the accompanying drawings, wherein I Fig. 1 is a fragmentary frontelevation of a shirt provided with the improved collar of the presentinvention;

Fig. 2 is a diagrammatic section, to large scale, on the line 2--2 ofFig. 1;

.pears after it has been stitched, trimmed and- Fig. 3 is a plan viewshowing the front and rear plies of the collar top;

Fig. 4 is a plan view of the lining for the collar OD;

Fig. 5 is a plan view showing the front and rear plies and theinterlining sewed together and with the points of the collar trimmed;

Fig. 6 is a plan view showing the top after it has been turned andpressed;

2 Fig. 7 is a diagrammatic section, to large scale, on the line 1-1 ofFig. 6; Y

Fig. 8 is a plan view of the collar top as it aD- fused;

Fig. 9 is a diagrammatic section, to large scale, on the line 9-9 ofFig. 8;

Fig. 10 is a plan view showing the front and rear plies of the neckbandarranged in superposed relation;

Fig. 11 is a plan view of the neckband lining;

Fig. 12 is a back view of the front ply of the neckband after hemming;

Fig. 13 is a plan view showing the back ply and the lining of theneckband seamed together;

Fig. 14 is a plan view showing the collar top and neckband united by thefirst seam;

Fig. 15 is a diagrammatic section, to large scale,

on the line |5-I5 of Fig. 14;

Fig. 16 is a plan view showing-the collar top and neckband after thesecond hemming operation;

Fig. 17 is 'a diagrammatic section, to large scale, on the line I'I-Ilof Fig. 16;v

Fig. 18 is a.L plan view with parts broken away showing the completedcollar with the button and buttonhole;

Fig. 19 is a diagrammatic section, to large scale, on the line I9-I9 ofFig. 18; and

Fig. 20 is va fragmentary front elevation illustrating a collar ofconventional type and illustrating its tendency to sag and gap when inuse. Referring to the drawings, and particularly to Fig. 1, the letter Sindicates.the upper part of a f shirt of conventional constructionhaving a turned-down collar comprising the top portion T, the neckbandN, the fold line F, and the points P. In accordance with the presentinvention, this collar is provided with brace members B hereinafter morefully described, which provide necessary stiffness at the adjacentportions of the fold line to prevent the collar from sagging at thispoint.

In the preparation of the improved collar having these brace members forsupporting the adjacent ends of the fold, it is preferred to proceed asfollows, referring to Figs. 3 to 19 inclusive:

Front and rear blanks I and 2 are cut from suitablev textile material,for instance cotton broadcloth, to form the front and rear pliesrespectively of the collar top. An interliner 3, also of textilematerial, is likewise prepared, this interliner, if the collar is to beof the fused self-stinened type, usually comprising inclusions of afusible stiffening material, for instance threads of cellulose acetateor a synthetic resin, or other inclusions of a fusible cementitiousmaterial.

As shown in Fig. 3, the line L indicates the usual substantiallystraight edge of a conventional blank employed in making the top of acollar. However, in accordance with this invention this edge E is curvedat its opposite end portions, as shown at C, so as to provide betweenthe line L and the line C, a more or less triangular portion B', whichconstitutes an element of the brace member of the completed collar.

The corresponding edge E of the interliner 3 is shaped substantiallylike the edge E, but preferably the ends of the interliner 3 arerecessed where they intersect the edge E' to provide the edges 4.

Having provided the blanks shown in Figs. 3 and 4, these blanks areassembled in registry, as shown in Fig. 5, and united by a seam 5.However, this seam does not unite the interliner to the blanks I and 2,along the edges 4, since these edges are substantially in line with theseam and the stitches of the seam do not enter the interliner at thispoint. Having united the several plies by the seam 5, the assembledplies are turned so as to dispose the interliner between the plies I and2, as shown in Figs. 6 and 7.

Following this turning operation the collar top is trimmed and thensubjected to the fusing operation, the top then having the appearanceindicated in Figs. 8 and 9.

Front and rear neckband blanks 1 and 8 respectively (Fig. 10), areprepared from suitable textile fabric, usually a cotton broadcloth, butordinarily of not so fine a. weave as the blanks which form the top ofthe collar, and a neckband interliner 9 (Fig. 11) is also prepared. Thisneckband interliner may or may not contain a fusible cementitiousmaterial. However, the neckband is not usually made as stii as thecollar top. As illustrated in Fig. 1l, one edge of the neckbandinterliner blank 9 is provided with a longitudinally extending recessI0.

The front ply 'I of the neckband is then hemmed, as shown at II, beingstitched at I2. 'I'he rear ply 8 of the neckband is then assembled withthe neckband lining 9, as shown in Fig. 13, and the parts are united bya seam I3, extending along the edge of the recess I0.

The assembled plies 8 and 9 and the front ply 'l of the neckband are nowassembled with the collar top, as shown in Figs. 14 and 15, and unitedby the seam I4, this seam being substantially straight from end to endof the neckband. The parts are so assembled before forming this seam I4that the portions B of the collar top project downwardly below this seamI4. The parts forming the neckband are now turned down along the seamI4, as shown in Figs. 16 and 17, and the buttonhole H is formed at oneend of the neckband, and the button M is attached to the other end ofthe neckband, as shown in Fig. 18. At this stage in the operation theassembled top and neckband in section substantially midway the length ofthe collar, appears as illustrated in Fig. 17, the collar at thisportion being of substantially conventional construction.

The neckband is now assembled with the shirt S, the lower edges of theplies -8 and 9 of the neckband being folded in and the several pliesbeing secured to the shirt material by the seam I5 (Fig. 19). Fig. 19illustrates the internal structure of the collar at one end and showshow the brace member B extends downwardly below the seam Il which unitesthe top and neckband,

at least approximately to a line through the center of the buttom M andparallel to the fold line adjacent the button when the collar isbuttoned,\ so as to be interposed between the iront ply 1 of theneckband and the interliner 9 of the neckband.

When the collar is folded, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, in the position ofuse, these triangular brace members B, which are integral with thecollar top and which have the same degree of stiiness as the collar top,since theyiconsist of the same plies of material and the same stiileningsubstance, are disposed close to the adjacent ends of the fold line F,and close to the point at which the ends of the neckband are buttonedtogether.

As shown in Figures 1 and 18 particularly, the triangular brace membersB extend into the neckband at least approximately to or beyond atheoretical straight line of the neckband connecting the center of thebutton and the outer end of the button hole, or in other wordsapproximately to or beyond a theoretical line through the center of thebutton M and generally parallel to the end sections of the fold linewhen the collar is buttoned. Preferably the brace members B extendslightly past the center or theoretical line of the neckband joining theouter end of the button hole and the center of the button, as appearsclearly from Figure 18. Each brace member B preferably extends onlypartially around the neckband, as shown clearly in Figures 1 and 10, oralong the fold line for less than V4 of the length of the collar top atthe fold line. The ends of the neckband thus have generally triangularportions of greater stiffness than the rest of the neckbands, with oneside of each triangle forming an approximate extension of the adjacentend edge of the collar top, and another side adjacent, and generallyparallel to, the adjacent end of the fold line.

The stiff triangular brace members thus constitute supports for theadjacent'ends of the fold line and prevent the neckband from rollingoutwardly. Thus the points P of the collar remain at substantially thesame level and the collar has a neat and trim appearance. This is insubstantial contrast to the effect commonly observed when the collar isof conventional type, as shown in Fig. 20. As indicated in this latterfigure, the neckband N very often rolls outwardly and downwardly, asshown at R, permitting the left-hand point P of the collar to drop belowthe level of the right-hand point P. Such outward rolling of theneckband at this point is due in part to the fact that the neckband isnot always so stii as the collar top, and second that at the end of thefold the material of the top is not supported except by the button whichis spaced downwardly some distance from the fold line. Moreover, the actof buttoning the collar has a tendency to break down the stiffness ofthe butas herein illustrated are preferred as means for supporting theadjacent ends of the fold, it is contemplated that other and equivalentbrace elements not necessarily integral with the collar top may beemployed for the purpose, such elements being parts of the collaritself, and concealed between folds of the neckband.

While a desirable embodiment of the invention has been illustrated byway of example, it is to be understood that the invention is broadlyinclusive of any and all equivalent constructions falling within theterms of the claims.

I claim:

1. A turn-down shirt collar having a neckband part and a relativelystill. top part connected together by a seam, said neckband part havinga button near one of its ends and a button hole near the other of itsends by which Athe neckband part may be secured in closed-loopcondition, said top part having its end portions'only extending into andpartly across the neckband part, beyond said seam that connects the topand neckband parts, at least approximately to the theoreticalstraightline of said neckband part connecting the center of the buttonand the outer end of the button hole. v

2. A turn-down shirt collar having a neckband part and a relatively stiitop part connected together by a. seam, said neckband part having abutton near one of its ends and a button hole near the other of its endsby which the neckband part may be secured in closed loop condition, saidtop part having its end portions only extending into and partly acrossthe neckband part, beyond said seam that connects the top and neckbandparts, at least approximately to the theoretical straight line of saidneckband part connecting the center of the button and the outer end ofthe button hole; said extending end portions progressing along theneckband beyond said seam connection for less than one-fourth of thefold line of the collar and then terminating.

3. A turn-down shirt collar having a neckband part and a relatively stiitop part connected together by a seam, said neckband part having abutton near one of its ends and a button hole near the other of its endsby which the neckband part may be secured in closed loop ,condition,said top part having its end portions only extending into and partlyacross the neckband part, beyond said seam that connects the top andneckband parts, at least approximately to the theoretical straight lineof said neckband part connecting the center of the button and the fouter end of the button hole, said extending end portions having theirmaximum extension into said neck band part adjacent the ends of the foldline, the amount of the extension progressively decreasing throughoutits length in a direction away from said maximum extension and theadjacent ends of the fold line.

4. A turn-down self-stiilened shirt collar having a, neckband part and arelatively stiff top part connected together by a seam, said neckbandpart having a button near one of its ends and a button hole near theother of its ends by which the neckband part may be secured in closedloop condition, said top part having-a relatively stiff portion thereofextending beyond said seam and into and partially across said neckbandpart from closely adjacent each end of the top part at the fold line fora distance less than one-fourth of the length of the fold line and thenterminating, said top part stir! portion within said neckband part andbeyond said seam extending at least approximately to a theoreticalstraight line connecting the center oi said button with the outer end ofthe button hole.

5. A turn-down shirt collar having a neckband 6 part and a top partconnected together by a seam, said neckband part having a button nearone of its ends and a button hole near the other of its ends by whichthe neckband part may be secured in closed loop condition, at least apart 'oi said top part extending beyond said seam and into and partiallyacross said neckband part at least to a theoretical straight lineconnecting the center of said button and the outer end of said buttonhole from closely adjacent each end of the top part at the fold line ina direction along the fold line, and being generally triangular in shapewith one side of the triangle disposed approximately along the seam, andanother side of"'the triangle forming an approximate extension of theend edge of the top part.

6. A turn-down shirt collar having a neckband part and a top partconnected together by a seamfsaid neckband part having a button near oneof its ends and a button hole near the other of its ends by which theneckband part may be secured in closed loop condition, said top partextending beyond said seam and into and partially across said neckbandpart at least to a theoretical straight line connecting the centerof'said button and the outer end of said button hole from closelyadjacent each end of the top part at the fold line in a direction alongthe fold line, and being generally triangular in shape with one side oi'the triangle disposed approximately along the seam and of a length lessthan one-fourth of the length of the fold line, and another side of thetriangle forming an approximate extension of the end of the top part.

7. A turn-down shirt collar having a neckband part'and a top part, saidneckband part having means by which its ends may be detachablyinterconnected, said top part having a portion thereof extendingpartially across the neckband part from adjacent an end edge of the toppart at the fold line for a distance less than onefourth of the lengthof the fold line, and in a direction transversely across the neckbandpart at least approximately to a. theoretical straight line through saidinterconnecting means at opposite ends of the neckband part, suchextending portion of the top part being generally triangular ln shape,with one side of the triangle adjacent and generally parallel to thefold line and of a length less than one-fourth of the length of the foldline, and with another side of the triangle forming an approximateextension of the adiacent end of the top part.

8. A turn-down shirt collar having a top and a neckband connectedtogether by a seam, with a fold line close to and generally parallelwith the seam junction between said top and neckband, the neckbandhaving a button hole in an end thereofand a fastener at the other end ofthe neckband, each end portion of said top extending beyond said seamand into the neckband solely for a distance less than about onefourththe length of the neckband, each of said extending portions beinggenerally triangular in shape with one s ide of the triangle inapproximate end to. end alignment with the adjacent end edge of the toppart, and another side adjacent and generally parallel to the fold line,and each of said portions also extending from the fold line toward theopposite edge of the neckband, at least approximately to a theoreticalstraight line through the outer end of the buttonhole and the center ofsaid fastener.

9. turn-down shirt collar having a top and a neckband connected togetherby a seam, with a fold line close to and generally parallel with saidseam between the top and neckband, the neckband having a plurality ofplies, a button hole at one end thereof and a cooperating fastener atthe other end thereof, said top extending through said seam between saidplies in said neekband from the ends of the fold line for a substantialdistance towards the intermediate part of the neckband, but less thanabout onefourth the length of the neckband at each end, said topextending into the neckband, at the ends of the top, from the seamtoward the opposite longitudinal edge of the neckband, for a distance atleast approximately to a theoretical straight line passing through theouter end of the button hole and the center of said fastener.

EDWARD C. PFEFFER, JR.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

